Return to Author Return to Main PageIve been wanting to write this article for a long time, so today is the day I have endeavored to convey the knowledge I have acquired over the years as an aviculturalist. Completing this article is significant to me because I see this as my way of helping birds survival. This article provides a platform to prevent the avian species falling victim to unnecessary deaths due to neglect by educating owners to identify illness. I would like to place emphasis on one caveat prior to launching into this article. This caveat is that I want to make the reader aware this article is by no means any attempt to replace veterinarian advice being sought, nor is this article being offered so the reader can cheap out of veterinarian costs. The intention of this article is to provide sufficient information so the pet owner can identify when their bird is sick, so the owner may have enough time to take the bird to a vet.
I find many people misunderstand birds, some may even feel birds are too difficult to care for, while others may feel birds die to easy or do not offer sufficient companionship like a dog or a cat. However I do not subscribe to any of these beliefs because I have found birds to be great companions and longer living than the typical pet dog and cat. I believe most of the confusion regarding birds lay with the fact people do not take enough time to observe the behaviors of the bird such as verbal and non-verbal cues. Having a bird who can not communicate in a language equal to our own is no different than having a child who is mute or even cognitively impaired. I do not use this analogy in derogatory means, instead I offer this analogy based on the simple fact that one must take extra time to understand communication with the groups of individuals if one is to understand what they are expressing. Birds are no different, thus it is imperative that we take extra time to observe and in doing so we enhance our ability to identify even the smallest of behavioural cues representing an intention or emotional state of the bird.
As an aviculturalist, I can not over emphases enough how essential it is to keep accurate records of your birds health. Any change to the condition of your bird should always be recorded, which is no different to your own doctors making clinical notes each time they see you. Of particular interest is the birds weight is to be recorded, because this will be one of the first things you can use to identify weight loss and identify early signs or severity of illness. The items noted in the sections distant examination and physical examination may also be record including the date of each note entry. Finally anything you add or change to the diet e.g supplements, worming, medicine etc must always be noted with provision date, measurement amount and for how long you have provided this to your bird.
A word of precaution prior to completing the avian examination. It is important to note while undertaking any examination, we collate the symptoms observed globally when we have identified the bird may be ill. Rarely do we automatically assume a single symptom means there is a significant issue with the bird. However one symptom is enough cause for us to seek additional supporting information for other signs of illness. For example: Just because only one of the birds eyes is closed does not necessarily mean it is sick, however if you note the eyes remain closed often and the bird has its feathers fluffed and sitting on the bottom corner of the cage. These symptoms when taken in a global context would indication possible illness.
The important thing to understand when conducting a distant examination of the bird is that it's imperative the bird is not disturbed at any stage. Disturbing the bird is likely to invoke it to readjust itself or possibly cause the bird to mask illness by faking good. The distant examination requires the observer to remain quiet and very still so not to alert the bird by your presence causing it to move. Using a systematic approach when performing a distant examination is by far the easiest method. This means we can start by examining the environment e.g cage for anything that is out of the ordinary noting any worthwhile findings. We then focus on the bird itself, starting from the head and progressively work our way down noting all aspects of the body until we get to the tail. So lets start with the distant examination.
Normal: Birds who are at a restful state will usually have their head turned backwards tucked on top of the back when sleeping, however birds will also tend to nap while in a normal standing position with the head facing forward. When fully alert, their head remains upright keenly watching the environment.
Watch for: A bird who is generally ill is likely to have its head tucked deep into its back feathers similar to a normal sleeping position. A bird who is always sleeping much of the day is likely to be showing signs of illness, boredom, depression or during the night maybe situated in a disruptive location where it can not get enough sleep. However a very sick bird may even have its head drooped downwards in front of its abdomen or resting on the floor of the cage. Birds who have suffered a head injury may have their head arch backwards as if to be looking at the ceiling or predominately tilted to one side. Birds who suffer with head injury may also be ataxic. A bird who appears to be consistently shaking its head may be seen to be having an issue with the ear region or possibility have mites or lice around the head.
Normal: The eyes should be bright, clear and should not contain any ocular secretions. It is quite normal for a bird to have one eye closed and the other eye open, it is a behaviour a bird may use while resting and yet at the same time still taking notice of the environment.
Watch for: Take note of the bird eyelid functioning, are they fully open, perhaps the eye is closed all the time giving the appearance that it is a sleep. Watch for discharge from the eyes or foreign objects in the eye, frequent squinting or closing eyes for long periods. Also observe for any inflammation of the eye or eyelids, colour changes to the eye and eyelids. Is the bird keenly watching you?
Normal: The cere (nostrils) of the bird should be clean and unobstructed. From time to time the cere maybe blocked due to feather dust which is normal as the bird will clear this in time.
Watch for: Watery secretions, caked on or crusted nasal blockages, mite infestation or inflammation.
Normal: The keratin layers of the beak should be smooth, while the upper beak (Maxilla) and lower beak (Mandible) should be uniform.
Watch for: Over grown, misaligned, damaged, broken or disfigured beaks. Pay attention to potential mite infestation (scaley face) or other infection inside or around the beak. Overgrown beaks maybe trimmed and / or corrected by a vet only.
Normal: Apart from regurgitating food, the bird should not be vomiting. For clarity sake, regurgitation generally occurs in breading season, to its partner, favorite toy and perhaps on the owner who the bird has assumed to be its mate.
Watch for: Ongoing regurgitation with head flicking may indicate crop infection, choking, inability not to keep food in crop.
Normal: When the bird is at rest the breathing should be consistent, not labored, nor should its beak be openly panting, nor should any noises such as wheezing or clicking noises be heard.
Watch for: Birds who are experiencing difficulty in breathing tend to exhibit 'tail bobbing' which is the excessive movement of the tail. Birds may also exhibit gasping for breath with the beak open as if it is panting when hot. Listen carefully for any wheezing or clicking sounds.
Normal: Wings should appear to sit evenly and neatly by the side of the body.
Watch for: Wings drooping in the absence of courtship and excitement may indicate the bird is ill or has a pre-existing injury to the bones of the wings.
Normal: The vent consists of the cloaca area and pelvic bones which should be clean, unobstructed, unsoiled and not blocked or swollen.
Watch for: The vent should not be blocked, soiled or inflamed. The vent should not have tumors or other lumps.
Normal: The bird should be standing upright, alert and well balanced.
Watch for: A bird consistently sitting at the bottom of the cage Instead of the perch may be indicating a problem with its ability to stand or balance. Also take note of a bird displaying a slumped posture and tail bobbing and is fluffed up.
Normal: Feathers should be smooth, uniform and intact without any noticeable feather plucking, or other types of feathers missing. Birds will tend to experience a seasonal feather moulting which is normal so do not mistaken loss of feathers as a sign of illness when its just moulting. Moulting is usually triggered by changes in temperature and daylight hours.
Watch for: Feather discolouration or poor quality feathers which may be an indicator of a bird with mineral and/or vitamin deficiency. Watch for signs of feather plucking (depending of origin) may be due to boredom, mites, lice, worm infestation, associated pain or lining the nest in preparation for breeding season. If the bird is in a shared cage, one must also consider the partner or is feather plucking its mate or others within the cage maybe bullying the bird. Keep an eye out for any signs of lice which may appear as little black dots which move around.
Normal: The position of the birds feathers are important as they depict an emotional state in addition highlighting communication and possible illness. Much of feather position I would classify as non-verbal communication.
Watch for: With respect to illness, a bird is likely to have the feathers fluffed (puffed out) because fluffing it's feathers enables it to effectively regulate the body temperature. Perhaps the best way to describe the function of bird feathers is when the feathers are close to the body, much of the heat escapes from the body, thus acting as a cooling function. When a bird has its feathers fluffed out, the feathers create a barrier of a warm circulating pocket of air between the skin and the feather. So for example the fluffed feather might create a gap of 5mm between the skin and the outer layer of the feather which enables the bird to radiate heat offering a warm air blanket.
Feather positioning on the bird can also highlight the emotional state of the bird. Facial expressions are highlighted with raising or lowering of the crest, affection highlight by feathers on head fluffing out wanting to be preened or having head scratched. Wing positioning can highlight elements of excitement, while the position of abdomen in a crouching position can highlight intention to fly or crouching to enable mating. Therefore, one must always consider the significance of feather positioning which transmits so much intentional or emotional expression information to its owner and other birds.
Normal: All bone structures on the legs, toes and toe nails should be uniform. It is normal for a bird to sleep on one leg.
Watch for: Limping, favoring of one side all the time. A bird sleeping on two legs may indicate the bird may be ill. This is usually because the bird may not have enough strength to stand on one leg while sleeping.
Normal: When observing changes in birds feacal matter, their are several things we need to be aware of. Firstly we need to have an understanding of the species of bird and what the normal feaces for this bird looks like. For example, their is a dramatic difference between the feces of a Lorikeet and a Cockateil. A Lorikeet feaces will be watery because it is a nectar eater, however the feaces of a Cockateil will typically be solid in appearance with a slight moisture content, it will also be coloured white and green, where the white is the urine and the green is the actual feaces.
Watch for: When examining the feaces we need to consider the following, if normally solid is the feaces now runny? If so how long has this occurred? Has the feaces changed colour? Was the change in colour and consistency of the feaces due to a new food that you may have recently introduced to the bird? If there a red or dark brown colouration within the feaces, this may represent blood. The causation of blood may be due to a number of issues e.g, crop infection, general infection, tumor, renal or kidney failure just to name a few. The over all advice for any of these conditions is to immediately get the bird to an avian vet ASAP. Another thing to watch for is the presents of worms or undigested foods in the feaces.
Normal: The normal action of a bird defecating is to slightly squat, slightly lean forward and then defecate.
Watch for: A bird that is taking a long time to excrete the feacal matter is likely to be straining to empty its colon. The bird should not be seen straining when attempting to excrete, for new bird owners it is sometimes difficult to discriminate between the actions of a normal or straining action. However if the bird is straining you may notice the bird crouched over the perch in a prolonged manner, the bird may even vocalise at the same time.
Normal: Observing the position the bird sits within the cage can reveal several interesting things. For example, if the bird is always climbing trying to stay close to the roof of the cage, it is possible the cage maybe positioned too low. If the bird is always sitting at the back of the cage, this may represent that it feels more comfortable at the back of the cage or feels threatened or unsafe at the front of the cage. If the bird is found to sit on the floor corner, fluffed up in the cage, this would represent the bird is seriously ill and requires immediate vet attention.
Watch for: A bird sitting fluffed up in the corner of the cage is a bird to be very concerned about because for this to occur the bird no longer has any energy to fake good. Their are two things most important for a bird to survive once it gets to the stage of just siting in the corner. Firstly, get the bird to a an avian vet as soon as possible. Secondly, a bird will generally try and fluff its feather to increase body temperature, however there are times birds are unable to adequately regular their own body temperature efficiently due to illness. This rapid decline in body temperature can cause the bird to rapidly fall into a state of hypothermia and go into shock. Typically psittacine body temperatures are higher than humans which usually range anywhere from 40 to 42 degrees Celsius. It is best to contact your vet prior to to attempting to apply additional heat.
Normal: It is typical for a bird to eat on a regular basis throughout the daylight hours. Depending on the bird observing it drinking may be more difficult than observing it eating, however normal. I am lucky to see my Cockateil drink once a day, although I may easily see it eating three to four times a day. The chances are if the bird is eating, it will also be drinking at some point in the day.
Watch for: Pay special attention to food that has not been touched or moved in anyway by the bird. If you find over the period of 12-24 hours food has not been touched, it is important to investigate why. A bird that is not eating is likely to become sick rapidly is the ability to maintain body temperature will decline. Their may be several reasons a bird may not be eating for example: stress, fear of new surroundings, environment is disturbed, the bird may be ill, the bird may not recognise the food and in the case of young birds that are recently out of the nest they may not know how to eat for themselves. Sometimes with young hand raised birds that have been recently acquired by new owners, the bird may stress, become confused and refuse to eat and instead revert to a dependent state of “pre-weening” wanting to be hand fed. If your hand raised bird refuses to eat, it is imperative that you contact the person who hand raised the bird and find out what foods were being fed. In the event you chose to continue continue to hand feed the bird, ask the previous owner the brand of hand raising formula. Better still, get the previous owner to take care of the bird until it is ready to be fostered out.
There comes a time at some point in your birds life that it will be necessary to psychically restrain your bird for a health related issue. The importance of being able to confidently hold your bird significantly increases the ability to identify early symptoms of illness such as weight loss. While restraining a bird correctly could be considered an advanced bird handling technique, it is not uncommon to restrain birds for a variety of purposes such as crop feeding, applying ointments to eyes, relocating birds in aviaries, unblocking vents, clearing the cere of blockages, the evaluation of pectoral muscles in the case of weight loss etc.
Fully understand the risks you are undertaking if you are attempting to restrain your bird against its will. The chances are you will be bitten at some time if your not careful. If bitten, the severity of the bite and pain will depend on the type of bird, size of the beak and the bite location. Physically restraining a bird will naturally increase panic and stress, so it is therefore important to be able to secure the bird in the quickest and safest manner to minimise any undue stress. It is also noteworthy to mention that failure to securely restrain the bird will increase the risk of injury to the bird as it attempts to struggle free from your grasp, and will likely see the handler being bitten (becoming a blood door). In the event you are bitten, learn to accept the pain, do not thrash about and certainly don't scream as these behaviours will only reinforce and strengthen the resolve of the bird not to let go out of fear, also causing the bird to keep applying downwards pressure onto the bite.
With respect to handling birds, some people may choose to use gloves to alleviate any pain from bites, however I choose not to use gloves as this impedes tactile pressure which increases the difficulty for me to differentiate how much pressure I am placing on the birds body when trying to hold the bird still. Additionally, I do not use towels to try and cover the bird prior to holding the bird because their is the possibility the towel may damage the wings if the bird attempts to fly off. Over the years I have learn’t to grab quick, secure the head to prevent the bird from biting while using the other hand to secure the body. For those who are not experienced in being able to safely and securely restraining a bird, you could consider getting either a pet shop attendant, an aviculturalist, bird handler or veterinarian to demonstrate and teach you how to correctly restrain your bird.
Once the bird has been satisfactorily restrained the following physical examination may occur.
Normal: Feathers should be smooth without any significant feather loss, the general appearance should be consistent of any other same species.
Watch for: Head lice may appear as little black or gray elongated dots that will disappear on touch. Gently blow at the feathers where you notice the black dots to see if they move.
Normal: The eyes should be bright, clear and should not contain any ocular secretions.
Watch for: Take a closer look at the eye region, pupil and eyelids for any swelling or ocular discharge.
Normal: The keratin layers of the beak should be smooth, while the upper beak (Maxilla) and lower beak (Mandible) should be uniform. The cere (nostrils) of the bird should be clean and unobstructed. The cere my change colour under stress or increased heat.
Watch for: Take a closer look at the cere, is there any fungal growth, watery secretions, caked on or crusted nasal blockages, mite infestation or inflammation?
Normal: Under a physical examination, the birds respiration rate will naturally increase due to stress. The bird may also start to pant.
Watch for: Because you are now closer to the bird, listen to any respiratory noise e.g clicking, wheezing etc. Respiration noise may be due to respiratory tract infections and require veterinarian assistance. It is also important to say if panting is observed while you are holding the bird, you should quickly complete the examination and release the bird back to the cage so it can relax from the stress of being held. Above all, ensure that you are not squeezing the bird so tight that it can not breath.
Normal: Gently feel the abdomen area, their should be enough meat and muscle tone on both sides of the keel bone.
Watch for: Watch for a prominent bony feeling at the keel bone which represents the lack of muscle tone/meat on each side of the keel bone. Little meat on each side of the keel bone is a serious issue because the bird is not consuming enough food or nutrients from the diet. This warrants further investigation.
Normal: All bones and joints should not appear dislocated or broken.
Watch for: The bones in the wings are hollow and are very easily broken. The three most common areas of broken bones and joints are toes, legs and wings. Neck, rib and other bodily bones can also suffer with fractures or breakage due to colliding into things during flight. The ability to recover from bone breakage will greatly depend on how the bones have been set for the healing process. Future disabilities as a result to injury to bones and joints may prevent the birds ability to adequately grasp the perch or walk with an impediment, while broken wings may potentially prevent the bird flying again.
It is possible to gently stretch open each wing a little to observe any deformations in the wings. Another issue to observe for are pressure sores which are similar to bed sores in humans. Pressure sores may initially look like swelling of the joints on the underside of the feet and toes or the joints above the foot which is the equivalent to our knee. Pressure sores in an advanced stage are likely to progress to sores and possible infection of the swollen affected area.
Normal: In seed eating birds, gently feel the crop which should feel soft and contain food.
Watch for: An empty crop in the presence of low body weight. Additionally watch for solid bulky or other objects stuck in the crop which may indicate the bird either swallowed a foreign object or is experiencing delayed food digestion possibly due to an infection.
Normal: As mentioned prior in the visual examination section, the vent should be clean, not blocked with feaces.
Watch for: Blocked vent with feacal matter may be due to intestinal difficulties. Watch for any swelling which may be a result of tumor, fat deposit or potential egg binding. Egg “egg binding” can occur in hens that are either in overly bred, virgin or nutrient deficient. Be aware that birds who have a disability with posture, feet or legs are likely to experience frequently dirty vent or clogged vents as they are unable to raise the vent away to defecate without touching or sitting in the feaces. Finally, watch for cloaca prolapse.
Normal: Contact your local Veterinarian or aviculturalist for an idea of what an average weight for your bird should be.
Watch for: Significant weight decrease or gain.
If your observations cause you to believe your bird is sick, take the bird to the vet immediately. One of the major factors contributing to a birds death is the core body temperature drops when they are ill. Birds usually have much higher body temperature than humans e.g between (40-42) degrees Celsius, which means birds are always burning energy quicker to keep their body temperature up. This is pretty much the same as having to keep throwing wood on a fire to keep warm on a freezing winter night. Once we stop putting wood in the fire, the fire will exhaust the fuel and die out causing us to get cold very quickly causing hypothermia.
When I was a child and first started having birds as pets, finding an avian vet was extremely difficult. I remember if my earlier birds got sick and I took them to a vet, it was not uncommon for them to come out in the box deceased. I do not know why the birds died, although this is what initially motivated me to study animal technology, and I have since found the information I had learn't very helpful in caring for animals. Obviously not every pet or bird owner is going to study a course, so I will say if your bird is sick any vet is better than no vet, however an avian vet is definitely preferred and something I would seriously encourage.
I tend to feel birds are a frequently misunderstood species, and because of this sometimes they are not viewed as a significant companion. The truth of the matter is if they are well looked after, medium to larger sized parrots in most cases will outlive dogs and cats and will be around for many years longer. My Lorikeet while extremely old now (30 years) has outlived my own dog, and two consecutive dogs a relative had, who now owns their third dog. It is ironic that if we compared Australian divorce rates to the longevity of parrots, there is probably a higher chance that a pet bird will outlive the average marriage longevity, where the median duration between marriage to divorce in 2015 was 12.1 years. If birds have imprinted to humans and think of you as their mate, they will show you much affection and attention. In many cases they will have a greater loyalty than a dog, always preferring to sit on you or next to you. However this loyalty can come at a significant emotional cost as birds do not understand why they may be resold or given to new owners, why their mate has disappeared all of a sudden (gone to work, go on holidays or died) and at times may become confused and see other household members as threats to the relationship integrity between the bird and its mate (owner). Birds experiencing great stress and anxiety may also experience behavoiural problems such as the typical feather plucking or excessive vocalisations “screeching”.
Until next time...
Darren Hamburger
Page Last update:26/06/2017
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